Malta 98 |
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In the summer of 1998 when planning our summer holidays and pondering over a map we spotted the little island of Malta and said what the heck lets go for it. I knew a small bit about the island from history books etc but not a huge amount so it would be interesting. So with great excitement we packed our bags and jetted off to beautiful Malta for a two week break. On the way out we drank champagne and we dreamed of our imminent holiday of relaxation. Herself dreamed of sunshine and relaxing by the pool whilst unknown to her I dreamed of blue water, coral and ship wrecks. I had “discretely” packed my stab jacket, regs, computer and other small bits and pieces so I was itching to get diving. On arrival in Malta as a lot of people will know the view from the aircraft is fantastic and you can see a lot of island and coastline in great detail as you descend. Once firmly established in our hotel we set about relaxing and soaking up the rays. A few days later, covered in factor 40 and bored of the pool I sauntered out down the seafront heading in the direction of Valetta. After a short walk I came across a dive centre on the Sliema sea front. The guys there were very friendly and gave me the details of their upcoming dives. They also provided CMAS 2 star courses and at the time the thought did cross my mind to do the course as I was a lowly 1 star but I abstained. The next day, armed with all of my gear I headed off to the dive centre bright and early for a dive. The dive centre kitted us out with whatever we needed and whilst waiting for the dive boat we were allowed to cool down in the training pool they had which was ideal in the heat. The dive brief was simple and precise and we would be diving on the HMS Maori in Valetta harbour. Only a short hop by boat as it was less than 700m.
HMS Maori was laid down in 1936 and had a colourful history seeing action in the North Sea as well as the German invasion of Norway. In 1941 she also played a small role in the hunt for the German battleship the Bismarck. In early 1942 she was transferred to the Eastern Mediterranean theatre of operations and eventually found herself in Malta in 1942. With the Allied fortunes reversed in North Africa by the arrival of Rommel, Malta was soon on the frontline and was a strategic port slap bang in the middle of the Axis convoy routes from Italy to Africa. What then followed were months of relentless air attacks on the island and in particular her port and airfields. It was on one of these raids that a Luftwaffe bomber sighted the Maori at anchor and attacked. On 12th February 1942 at 0200hours, while anchored at Malta, HMS Maori was attacked and a bomb found its way into her engine and gear room. She blew up and sank in shallow water, still moored at the emergency destroyer buoy at the entrance to Dockyard Creek. Crews from neighbouring ships fought the blazing oil spreading across the water and were able to contain it. Luckily most of the crew were ashore in shelters due to the frequent air attacks and only one man was killed. As a result of the attack the Maori lay directly in the shipping lane and it was decided to tow her away but on the tow she broke up and sank in her present location. When our dive boat arrived at the site the scene was lovely with the destroyer lying below the walls of the fort above and the site was basked in sunlight. We geared up and did our buddy checks. I was diving with a German bloke who hadn’t a word of English but he seemed ok even though no one had a clue what he was saying, but his hand signals were fine and we understood each other on that level. We entered the water and he lead on the dive and we went down to 16m of the whitest sand ever. The Maori was just ahead of us and was heavily coated in sand with the upper decks awash with the stuff. But there was still a good bit to see as in the turret rings which were alive with life and part of the bridge superstructure. The guns and turrets were all removed by the RN during the war so that was a bit disappointing. On the wreck there are lots of fireworms, John Dorys, eels and I was told octopus on and around the wreck and in the sand nearby there was supposed to be sea horses, but alas I never saw any of them. As the sand was so fine there wasn’t much of a danger of it being kicked up by the divers so everything was fine. Visibility was excellent with up to 10m so it was easy to orientate oneself on the wreck. I do have to say that there isn’t too much left off this ship probably with the sand drifting over it but it is still a worthwhile dive. There are the upper decks, bow and some of the superstructure but after that it disappears into the sand as most of the hull has collapsed. What looks to be junk on the sea floor is actually the rest of the ship jutting from the sand so it is a pity that it can’t all be viewed. After a 40min dive we surfaced to glorious sunshine and our boat. A swift hop back to shore and I was sipping martinis, shaken not stirred by the pool within the hour. Dive Site: HMS Maori
A few days later the itch to go diving was back and I just happened to swing by the dive centre again to see what they had available and once more put my name down for the following days dive. This time the dive would be on the El Faroud a 10,000 tonne container ship that had exploded in Valetta when undergoing repairs killing 9 ship workers. In 1998 three years after this incident the govt. decided to sink the ship to form an artificial reef near the Blue Grotto on the south side of the island. So the next day I snuck out early and our 2 bus convoy set off to the site. The driving style on the island is the same as most of the Mediterranean, with loads of blowing the horns and gesticulating whilst shouting about each others mothers etc as well as swerving to the other side of the road whenever the feeling takes the driver. Fortunately we made it to the site near Qrendi (location of the Blue Grotto) in one piece. We were briefed and got geared up and I was partnered with an English couple. It was at this stage that two young German chaps stood out as they had some of their gear with them that they had brought to Malta. Weight belts to be exact… Yes these two budding divers upon clarification and disbelief from all confirmed that they had brought 20lb of lead shot in their luggage from Germany to Malta “so they could try it out”. After we recovered we kitted up and entered the water at the slip which is used by small boats bringing tourists to the Blue Grotto. We gathered in 5m of water on the bottom while above it was like the M50 above with tourist boats coming and going.
Once submerged off the pier we followed our guides for the swim out to the ship which was a good 8 minute hike against the current. Diving in a shorty suit one could still notice the thermo clines as we dived down to the seabed some 25m below. Again white sand and sunshine above helped with the experience but I still couldn’t make up for the sight of the ship. Looming out of the haze which looked like a wall we came across the huge propellers and we looked up and it was then that we all realised how big this ship really was. My buddy and I swam around the rudder and props gauging the scale and then ascended the superstructure. The ship has been made safe with enlarged windows for divers etc so we were able to swim onto to the bridge and wheelhouse and peer out into the water to see the holding tanks some 25m below. The bow just disappeared off into the distant and it was a slightly eerie sight as if we were in a fog. The wreck is covered in sea life including scorpion fish, barracuda, sea bream and tuna and the fish are well used to divers. To be able to swim out of the bridge window and turn around and see this ship was a fantastic sight and drives home the sheer scale of this wreck and feeling of flying. Looking down and seeing the decks below and thinking that it wasn’t that long ago that sailors and crewmen walked and worked upon them. Unfortunately due to the lengthy swim out our time was contained to 10 min only and we reluctantly had to head back when we got the signal. On the way back we detoured slightly by the cliff face which was doted with small caves and overhangs and needless to say teaming with life. With everyone accounted for we surfaced amongst the tourist boats and clambered out for lunch. This dive is a fantastic one and would be greatly improved with the use of a dive boat rather than the snorkel… Dive Site: Um El Faroud
My last dive on the island was to be a memorable one again for the reasons of the location and the site. At this stage I was on very friendly terms with the dive centre they contacted me to tell me that two guys were headed to the North West of the island in order to dive a ship called the Rozi and was I interested? Sign me up I said and we made our plans. The next day our local guide and an ex-Belgian navy submariner and I all bundled into a small beat up Renault 5 van and headed off up to the site. Our Belgian friend said he had served on submarines and had spent much of his time mainly stationed off Northern Russia watching and listening for Soviet subs and surface traffic all during the 1980’s. I was full of questions and bombarded him with all sorts but he would dodge the question and even say that certain answers were classified. Since then with the dawning of the internet I have learned that the Belgian navy does not or never has had submarines and also limits itself to coastal work and does not patrol the Atlantic so it seems our friend might have been a bit of an Uncle Albert in the end. Being the smallest I had to sit on top of the gear in the back of the car and my rear end was numb after sitting on the tanks and bumpy roads so I was glad when we pulled into Cirkewwa. For those who are familiar with Malta, Cirkewwa is where you can get the ferry across to Gozo. On arrival the sea was flat calm and just perfect for diving. We kitted up and headed down to the breakwater and entered the water and began our snorkel out to the ship. It was about 200m out when we dived. The Rozi was apparently purposefully sunk in 1991 for an intended submarine tourist attraction but didn’t work out so it is now purely left for divers' enjoyment. And it really is an enjoyment to dive; with excellent vis you could see this ship at least 15m or more off on the sand and it was an impressive site. Swimming from shore you approach the ship bow first so it makes for a memorable first impression. To this day it still reminds me of a ship in the bottom of a fish tank, just perched on the sand slightly listing teaming with life. There are huge number of wrasse, cardinal fish and others, and the beautifully clear, blue water. The wreck itself is intact, except for the engine, propellers and rudders which have been removed prior to its sinking. Entry is from the shore, and the swim over is from the reef towards the wreck which is marked by a huge yellow buoy. Some penetration is possible through the now empty engine room and the bridge. We spent a good bit of time circumnavigating the wreck and examining thoroughly. Again due to the depth our time was limited so the return swim to the reef acts as a slow ascent to off gas and beats the surface swim. The reef can be explored and there are a couple of swim through in the rock itself. A spectacular dive all in all and well worth it. On the drive back it turned out that our local guide was headed to Ireland to catch up with some of his student friends and was asking what it was like in Ireland for the diving…upon reflection I began my answer with ”do you know what a dry suit is?” Dive Site: Rozi |
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